Kuala Lumpur is known for its architecture, as exemplified by the Petronas Towers, the tallest buildings in the world. I didnÕt think I would be impressed by a skyscraper, but this was the exception. This is no anonymous squarish concrete building; it is two star-shaped steel pillars ascending to the heavens, joined at the forty-second floor by a bridge.
Skyscrapers notwithstanding, Kuala Lumpur is a very ethnic city. Its Muslim character is apparent in its masjids and in the outfit worn by the Muslim women, the bajukoram. This consists of a long skirt (the saroung), a long-sleeved tunic top, and a headscarf, all in bright colors and splashy prints. When I looked out over the streets of Kuala Lumpur, I saw a riot of colors.
In addition to its Muslim character, Kuala Lumpur has strong Chinese and Indian elements. I saw beautiful Chinese and Hindu temples in Chinatown and Little India, but the most striking Hindu temple is located outside the city at the Batu Caves. Reaching it requires a climb of 272 steps. At the entrance, a figure of Kartikkeya stood guard. Inside, the roof of the cave opened to the sky. During the festival of Thaipusam, in January or February, people form a procession to walk from a temple in Little India to the Batu Caves. During this festival, believers pierce their bodies with hooks and skewers. BJ had seen this as a child; he said when the hooks were pulled out, there were no wounds or scars. Bad memory? Illusion? The power of religious faith? I donÕt know, but I'd like to observe it for myself.
Partly on my own and partly with BJ, I explored all these places and others. One evening I attended a cultural performance, dances from the various Malaysian ethnic groups, but it felt sterile and touristy and even the dancers looked bored with it. For other evening activities, I went to the night markets in Little India and Chinatown. Markets are one of Malaysia's attractions. Clusters of stalls, indoors or outdoors, hawk everything from food to handicrafts to "Rolex" watches, depending on the market. The important thing is to bargain. For some people, no doubt, this is an exciting process; for me, it's a pain. "Rolex" watches and "Gucci" handbags hold no appeal for me, so it was easy to pass those by, but I probably paid more than necessary for various handicrafts simply because of my dislike of the bargaining process. Kuala Lumpur also has discotheques, and Muslim girls who wear discreet clothes during the day transform themselves at night to go dancing.
My third night in Kuala Lumpur was my last, except for stopovers between flights and trains elsewhere. I vowed to be back. This is a city full of color and excitement, a city that combines the best of the East and the best of the West.
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