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An Unpretentious Little Wine

J Christmas Tree udging from the roar of conversation and the lack of wiggle room, I have to conclude our Christmas party was a success. Neighbors generously provided cookies and other rich fare, and the New World Deli donated a fine smoked salmon, served with red onion, cream cheese and capers.
    A few minutes before the party started Alan Marburger noted that we had nothing to drink. I nipped over to Fresh Plus market and picked up a couple of six packs of Pacifico cerveza, and a small selection of red and white wines. I was interested in the neighbors' reactions.
    I did overhear one veteran beer drinker declare that the Pacifico being pulled out of the ice tub was "as cold as any that's been served in these parts in years."
    A few days later I received the following email from Rollo Treadway, arguably Hyde Park's most knowledgeable oenophile:

    "Hi, guys. Loved the party. Naturally, I made a beeline for the wine table. The chardonnay tempted me, but I decided to make the acquaintance of the 2002 Bella Sera Sangiovese. I'll be forever grateful that I did.
    Despite being served in a plastic cup, the bouquet was heady and lush, chock full of berries, vanilla bean, cassis, and a nice bit of oak. On the front palate there was the expected rush of tannins, but also some surprises: pomegranate, banana, blackberry, fresh basil, dried lavender, smoked meats and olives. The complexity was unexpected and immediately got my attention.
    Then I encountered a big joke. It seems our Italian cousins were having fun at the expense of us Americans: there at mid-palate were substantial, half-mocking dollops of peanut butter, bubble gum, Pez lozenges, Coca-Cola and Smith Brothers cough drops. The humor was so unexpected and overwhelming that I almost burst out laughing. My wife was spared this embarrassment by the sudden emergence, still at mid-palate, of something dark, oily, and faintly menacing.
    I couldn't place the taste precisely, but it called to mind the stuff I used to put on my baseball glove to keep it from drying out. The effect was unsettling to say the least. It is certainly possible that this was nothing more than an unfortunate reaction of the wine with the capers accompanying the salmon. But at my age [Treadway is 77] and in my condition, there was also the very real possibility that I was suffering a little mini-stroke.
    I was spared further harrowing by the arrival of a bountiful botanical harvest at back palate: pear, mango,

Continued on page 15
Making Christmas decorations
Page 14 -- January, 2005 -- Pecan Press

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